Vetements, founded in 2014 by Demna and Guram Gvasalia, has redefined the fashion landscape with its unorthodox approach. Born as a reaction against the over-commercialized and often repetitive world of high fashion, Vetements champions authenticity, irony, and a deep connection to subcultures. From oversized silhouettes to provocative graphics, Vetements is a brand that thrives on making bold statements while challenging traditional notions of luxury.
The Origins of Vetements
Vetements meaning “clothing” in French, was conceived as a design collective aiming to strip fashion back to its core purpose: creating garments people want to wear. Demna Gvasalia, who trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, brought a fresh perspective influenced by his background at Maison Margiela and Louis Vuitton. The brand’s mission was clear—reject seasonal trends and focus on individuality and innovation.
Vetements debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2014 and quickly gained traction for its raw, unpolished designs. Its infamous 2015 show held in a gritty gay club solidified its status as a disruptor in the fashion world, setting the tone for its irreverent aesthetic.
Defining the Vetements Aesthetic
Vetements’ designs are rooted in subversion, taking mundane or overlooked items and transforming them into high-fashion statements. Key elements of its aesthetic include:
- Oversized Proportions: Vetements pioneered exaggerated silhouettes, from boxy blazers to oversized hoodies, redefining the concept of fit.
- Graphic Slogans and Logos: The brand uses ironic, satirical, and sometimes controversial graphics to critique consumer culture and societal norms.
- Deconstruction: Pieces often feature asymmetry, raw edges, and unconventional tailoring, reflecting a sense of imperfection and rebellion.
- Everyday Inspirations: Vetements elevates ordinary objects—like DHL logos or classic trench coats—into wearable art.
Provocation as a Statement
Vetements is known for its ability to provoke. From creating a T-shirt emblazoned with a DHL logo to reinterpreting religious symbols in its designs, the brand uses fashion as a form of commentary. This subversive approach has sparked discussions about the nature of luxury and the boundaries of art and commerce.
Its provocative ethos extends to its runway presentations, often held in unconventional locations like Chinese restaurants, parking garages, and suburban McDonald’s restaurants. These settings underscore Vetements’ commitment to democratizing fashion while rejecting traditional elitism.
Collaborations and Cultural Impact
Collaborations are central to Vetements’ success, blending its avant-garde spirit with iconic brands. Notable partnerships include:
- Reebok: Revamped classic sneakers with bold, futuristic designs.
- Levi’s: Deconstructed denim with unexpected twists, like exposed seams and exaggerated fits.
- Champion: Elevated athleisure basics into high-fashion essentials.
- DHL: The DHL T-shirt, a tongue-in-cheek nod to branding and consumerism, became one of Vetements’ most iconic pieces.
Vetements has also influenced a new wave of designers, inspiring them to embrace authenticity and blur the lines between streetwear and luxury.
Leadership Shift and Evolution
In 2019, Demna Gvasalia left Vetements hoodie to focus on his role as creative director at Balenciaga, leaving Guram Gvasalia to lead the brand. Under Guram’s guidance, Vetements has continued to push boundaries, experimenting with sustainability, exploring themes of digital culture, and emphasizing inclusivity.
Vetements Today
Vetements has transcended being just a fashion label to become a cultural phenomenon. Its ability to provoke thought, challenge norms, and innovate has secured its place at the forefront of contemporary fashion. By combining irreverence with craftsmanship, Vetements captures the zeitgeist while maintaining a timeless appeal.
As the brand evolves, it remains a powerful reminder that fashion can be both wearable and a form of art—an unfiltered reflection of society that embraces imperfection, individuality, and the unconventional.